See Maui On Horseback

Maui is a place that begs to be explored. From the rim of Haleakala’s vast volcanic crater to the depths of the Pacific Ocean floor, secrets wait to be revealed and adventures follow naturally.

A guided horseback tour is a great way to not only explore out-of-the-way terrain, but also to become familiar with the lay of the land and the island’s culture. Tours are as diverse as the terrain. Pick your way to the floor of a crater. Ride through a generations-old, family-owned cattle ranch. Or saddle up for a “talk story” ride in remote Kipahulu where life as it was still exists.

Kipahulu, just beyond Hana, is a wildly beautiful and ancient place where people still follow traditional Hawaiian practices and life stories are written much the same as the stories of their ancestors. Guided by the belief that a culture dies when it stops being practiced, these people, often at great hardship, hold close their relationship with nature, taking seriously their role as caretakers of the ‘aina, or the land.

You’ll get to know Kipahulu and its Native Hawaiians when you set off with Maui Stables on a horseback ride. Each tour begins with a traditional pule, or prayer, and native chants will be used as part of the tour narration. Maui Stables is located 50 miles from major resort areas near the pools of Ohe’o Gulch. Call for directions.

Outside Makawao, at the edge of an Upcountry rainforest, Pi’iholo Ranch offers horseback rides and a glimpse of another era of Hawaii’s history. Owned and operated by Peter Baldwin, the ranch has been in the Baldwin family for six generations. The Baldwins trace their history to the missionary era of the 1830s and have a long history of cattle ranching and prominent public service.

Tours, conducted by family and friends, offer gorgeous views, stories about Maui’s ranching history and glimpses of wildlife, like the endangered Hawaiian nene goose, which is the state bird. The Baldwins have established a preserve and nursery for nenes on the ranch. There are three tours a day from Monday through Saturday. Private tours also are available.

Another company, Pony Express, conducts tours that descend from Haleakala’s summit to a massive volcanic valley, erroneously referred to as a crater, where 500-foot cinder cones and other strange formations punctuate the otherwise barren terrain.

Riders travel the Sliding Sands Trail, which descends 2,500 feet to the valley floor where a picnic lunch is served before heading back up the trail on this four-hour, 7.5-mile ride. Riders check in at the Haleakala Ranch office and then meet with a guide at the Haleakala National Park Visitor Center.

Less experienced riders may want to pass on this trip and opt for a Pony Express Haleakala Ranch ride. Cowboy up and ride through Maui’s largest working cattle ranch, located at an elevation of 4,000 feet. Catch terrific coastal views as you hear stories about Hawaii’s legendary cowboys, the paniolo.

 

Snorkel Molokini

 

If you’re itching to try out your underwater gear in a place teeming with marine life, Molokini is a hot ticket stop. An ancient volcanic cinder cone appearing low on the horizon about 3 miles off Maui’s south shore, Molokini is a world-class snorkeling and diving location, which can be reached only by boat.

Maui’s tour boat companies make it easy to get there. Tours depart daily from Lahaina and Ma’alaea harbors for the short trip to this resource-laden wonderland.

 Molokini’s crescent, quarter-moon shape acts as a fortress that provides protection from waves and powerful currents. And its protected status as a marine life and bird conservation district gives shelter to about 250 species of fish, some of which are found nowhere else on earth, and a variety of marine life. Most days the water is crystal clear with more than 100 feet visibility. Expect to see humpback whales in season, green sea turtles, monk seals, eagle rays and sharks, as well as rainbow-colored fish and fascinating lava formations.

The island itself is off-limits to humans. It’s a bird sanctuary, and there’s no fishing in the marine sanctuary that surrounds the island. But divers and snorkelers are welcome to explore Molokini’s underwater refuge to their heart’s content. Do not feed the marine life, or approach sea turtles or seals.

Some people believe the best site is on the backside of the crater where the crowds tend to thin out and the back wall drops sharply to depths of 300 feet. In the center is a lush reef area with excellent viewing. Another favorite destination is Turtle Town, which is (you guessed it) the home of a large colony of Green Sea Turtles.

 Most boat companies make a party out of a trip to Molokini. They carry snorkeling and diving gear, provide instruction, offer breakfast or lunch and sometimes a bar. You can cruise abroad a catamaran, a powered raft or a sailboat.

 

Cool off in a Mountain Pool!

Hawaiian legend has it that giant mo’o (lizards) live in mountain pools. You don’t have to believe that, but it would be wise to follow the mo’o's rules: Before swimming in mountain pools, like those at Ohe’o Gulch, make an offering to the resident mo’o and ask permission to enter. Just drop a flower or small tree branch into the water. If the offering is swept away and disappears, the mo’o is at home and doesn’t want to be disturbed. In other words, it’s not safe to swim in the water.

Myths, it is said, are always based on some measure of common sense. Local swimmers may not believe in giant lizards, but they know it’s wise to test water conditions before they enter. Tossing a stick in the water can tell you a lot. Checking with a park ranger at Kipahulu Ranger Station is an even better idea.

On a bright, sunny day, the pools of Ohe’o Gulch, located off Route 31 about 10 miles past Hana in the Kipahulu District of Haleakala National Park, are a great place to sun, swim and hike. Though they were previously, and erroneously, referred to as the Seven Sacred Pools, there are actually at least 20 pools carved from volcanic rock and fed by Ohe’o Stream.

The chain of pools, some large, some small, are connected by waterfalls or short cascades. But Ohe’o Stream, like the mo’o, has many moods. In a bad mood, the stream can turn to a thundering torrent of white water burying the pools in its path as it heads for the ocean.

Ohe’o Gulch is a popular swimming and hiking destination. To avoid crowds, arrive early in the morning or late in the day. Getting there is an adventure in itself. The most direct route is to navigate the 52-mile highway to Hana and continue beyond to the pools.

 

Snorkeling

As many of you can imagine, snorkeling is a very popular activity in Maui, and personally it’s one of my favorites.   The ocean water is almost always warm, and there are plenty of spots around the island with a wealth of fascinating oceanlife to see, both plant and animal.  Depending on if you want to see large schools of unusual fish, turtles, amazingly colored coral formations, or plant life like nowhere else, the best snorkel spot for you may range from one end of the island to the other.   

My favorite snorkel spot is at Olowalu Beach.    It features acres of coral reef and all sorts of different plant life.   It’s a lot of fun to swim through the mazes of volcanic rock formations, and the water stays relatively shallow for a great distance from shore.  If you’re lucky, you may see the occasional turtle or eel, but you’re certain to see all sorts of fish playing hide and seek.   I also think it’s a great location because it’s not a busy beach, and because of the location on the island, the water is rarely anything but calm.

If you’re in the area or planning a trip here soon, it’s a must do if you’re a fan of snorkeling.  To get there, follow Hwy 30 toward Lahaina to mile marker 14.  There’s a long stretch of sand and gravel to park in.  Be careful to park completely off the roadway, but as close to it as possible.  The sand gets softer and deeper the further in you go, and I’ll admit I’ve had to had people help push me out before (before I got my 4 wheel drive Jeep, that is!) .    Make sure you bring all your necessary snorkel/beach supplies, plus plenty of food and water.   There are no facilities nearby.

In future posts I’ll discuss some of my favorite Maui snorkel spots, but in the meanwhile, I’d love to hear some of yours!

Waihee Ridge Trail

Hiking is one of my favorite activities in Maui.  There are several scenic trails all over the island, and one of my favorites is the Waihee Ridge Trail.   It’s a fairly tough trail that rises 1,500 feet over the roughly 2.5 mile path.  It’s well worth it though, because the scenery is absolutely amazing.   The first 200 feet consists of an intimidatingly steep concrete path from the parking lot.   Once you complete that part, stop to catch your breath and get ready for the fun part to begin. 

You’ll be treated to lush forests, beautiful views of waterfalls, and thankfully, several park benches along the way to rest up and prepare yourself for the next legs of the journey.  The trail is almost entirely uphill with several switchbacks and an occasional makeshift rock or lumber stairway.  There are many spots along the trail to stop and take in the sweeping views of The West Maui Mountains, the nearby towns of Wailuku and Kahului, and of course the brilliant blue waters of the Pacific Ocean.   Finally, when you reach the summit, there’s a picnic table there to have lunch or a snack, and then rest some more until you’re ready for the trip back down the mountainside.

If you’re up for tackling this hike, try to start out early in the morning, since this part of the island can often get very cloudy mid-day.   Make sure you bring plenty of water, energizing snack/lunch food, and your camera.  Wear really good hiking shoes, too.   If you get caught in the rain, many parts of the trail are quite slippery when wet.

To reach the trailhead, take Highway 32 west out of Kahului until you reach Highway 330, about three miles. Turn right on Highway 330 and continue until it becomes Highway 340 at mile marker 2. At 9/10 mile past mile marker 6 is the Maluhia Boy Scout Camp on the left. Turn left on to this road and it is approximately 1 mile uphill until you reach a small parking area

What are your favorite hiking trails in Maui?